The Falaj: Sharing Water Fairly

In a country where rain is rare and rivers are almost nonexistent, water has always been precious. For centuries, Omanis solved this problem with the aflaj (singular: falaj), a network of channels that carry water from underground sources or mountain springs to villages and farms. Five of these systems are now listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Some aflaj begin with a 'mother well' dug deep into the ground near the mountains. From there, a tunnel slopes gently downhill for many kilometres until the water appears on the surface. Building one required remarkable skill: if the slope was too steep, the water would destroy the tunnel; if it was too flat, the water would stop flowing.

Just as impressive as the engineering is the social system behind it. Water is divided by time, not by quantity. Each farmer owns a number of 'shares', and each share gives the right to use the falaj for a fixed period. In the past, time was measured by the movement of the sun during the day and by the stars at night.

A respected person, often called the wakil, manages the falaj. He records who owns which shares, organises repairs and settles disagreements. The first water, which is the cleanest, is used for drinking; then it passes the mosque and bathing areas, and finally it reaches the fields. This order reflects a clear set of priorities that the whole community accepts.

Today, many villages use pumps and pipes, and some aflaj have dried up as underground water levels have fallen. Yet in places such as Al Hamra and Nizwa, the old channels still run, reminding visitors that sustainability is not a new idea in Oman.